Passing by the beautiful Pulau Aur

We departed Tioman 0015hrs for a cool overnight passage back to Singapore via P.Aur. We didnt actually plan to visit Aur in this trip, but it was highly recommended that we do so… we hear such raving reports on how beautiful Aur is, we just have to see it for ourselves.

It was a very windless night, the seas were very calm… We couldnt sail in this condition, but we did have a current in our favor. Motoring at 1800rpm, we made an easy 4-5kns, we got there in just 8hrs.

Entering the slot between Aur(right) and Dayong(left)

0700hrs, daybreak on the S China sea, we are about 5nm to Aur. At the moment when the sun broke thru the clouds and horizon, there were a flurry of jumping fish activity all around us. These are big mackeral like fishes jumping all around on our port side. I did wonder if they were dolphins, but nah, we could see the shapes of the jumping fishes very clearly.. .. then I wondered if they do this morning exercise daily..? 🙂 The feeling of being there amongst them and watching them is quite undescribeable.. it was AWESOME!

Fishes swimming by our boat...

0830hrs, entering the gap between Dayong and Lang and then Aur. The rocks on Dayong and Aur are really quite spectacular.. and the waters are unbelieveably clear! We start seeing the bottom very clearly at 20ft.

Limited charting of Aur.

The top island is Dayong, the big island is Aur and the little one left of Aur is Lang… 🙂 There are 3 resorts in the gap between Dayong and Aur. Resort 1 is nearest tot the jetty, where ferries brings holiday makers from the mainland to Aur. Resort 2 is on P. Dayong, directly opposite Resort 1. Resort 3 is further into the gap. It doesnt show on the map, but depth in the middle of the gap is 25meters at least. It shallows quite rapidly nearer to shore, so we do really have to keep an eye on the depth sounder.

Sunset on Calliste at Aur

We dont have good charts of this area.. using our very basic Bluecharts, depth sounder and common sense, we manage to find a small patch of sand to anchor in among coral heads.. not a ideal situation for anchoring… really should have pickuped a mooring.. but lets wait and see how it goes.

Another pretty picture of Calliste at Aur

1000hrs, Doug needs a rest.. and I need to stretch my paddling arms.. am too excited in this beautiful anchorage to get any sleep. Launched Yakuni and out to play on my own… only a short 3 mins paddle to the shallow waters near the beach around the 3rd resort, next flow with the current down towards the 1st resort and gawk at all those beautiful rocks, marine life, beaches and coconut trees.

Oh wow, that was so fun. Now, whats over at the 2nd resort? Crossed the gap in just 10 mins, paddled up and then back down towards Calliste.. check out the restaurant and chalets… looks like quite a resort, but its Friday noon and nobody is around… all so quiet in all 3 resorts, a skeleton crew goes about preparing for the busy weekend.

Tiny snails on a rock

Looks like there are plenty of moorings around and available for us.. Can see the huge blocks and chains at the bottom, a reassuring sight.. yes, we really should move to a mooring. … saw a beige colored mooring ball with a haysack color thingy attached to .. just about 10meters from it… the mooring moved… ! and slowly glided away and into the water! What was that!!! ?? Was it a Dugong? … Oh WOW! That was so cool!!

Shallow waters near to the resorts on Aur

1300hrs, back to Calliste. Sun is getting too hot now, time for lunch anyway. We were just hanging out in back and having lunch.. a nice breezy day, feels alot less hot and stuffy than in Tioman.. I really do have many reasons to like Aur better.. really!

Sea cucumbers hanging out in the shallows of Aur..

.. something large is moving in the water .. about 20 meters on our starboard.. I point out to Doug… its like a dark shadow just under the water surface.. we watch and watch and… out pops a head! Its a TURTLE!! Then it dive away… no time for a pix… DRATS!! At least, this time, its a positive identification and we both saw it.. but I think the beigy thing that I saw earlier is different…

Looking out at resort 3 on Aur

 

1600hrs, we are pointing in a rather usual position… a sign that our anchor chain is fouled around some coral heads… time to shop around for a better anchoring spot.. Doug prefer anchoring to picking up a mooring… After 2hrs of moving up and down, left and right between the 3 resorts… no luck. So back to the same old place and this time, we are picking up a mooring. Always better to ask the locals for which is available for us… if you dont want to upset anybody. We were pointed to the new blue mooring near to the dive tank refill platform… we saw them putting it in earlier in the day… well, it’ll be fine. We are not expecting any bad blow in the next 24hrs… fingers crossed.

Postcard perfect picture!

Day 2 0830hrs, launched both kayaks. I kept talking about my solo expedition whole of the night, and I bugged Doug all night to go paddle with me the next day… 🙂 .. I am sure he’ll enjoy it too.. 1st stop, short paddle to the rocks near the 3rd resort. Thats where the sea cumbers hangout.. 🙂 and snails too.

Early morning daylight is great for postcard pictures! Look at the gentle blue sky, lush green palm trees, weathered grey rocks and shades of teal green waters.

Rocks on the left and rocks on the right...

Next stop, to the passage thru the rocks! I could hang out here all day!!

Currents run quite strongly between these islands, that makes the hydraulic actions very interesting among these rocks. Its undescribeable interesting to sit in a kayak and wait to see where the waters will bring you.

Thats Calliste! Shes so small among the rocks!

We had so much fun around the rocks! Seeing Calliste thru a pair of small rocks… and in 10secs of waiting… viola! A different view of Calliste … and the dive platform appears out of nowhere…. ! Optical illusions!

The crab are almost as big as Calliste!

Check out how big the crabs look! Oh wow!

Looks like Calliste is sitting unprotected from the NE… but for the time that we were there, it was not really too uncomfortable.. it surprised us.. really.

Alright, just 1 more picture of the beautiful waters of Aur…

Crystal clear emerald waters of Aur!

1600hrs, we left the mooring. We exited thru the narrow part of the gap, going for a circumnavigation of Dayong.. We see dive boats do that all the time, so we think we be fine… do as the locals… but follow the big boats, not the sampans… 🙂

Once out to the open, we started picking up a little wind, 2-10kns. Made it around Dayong to Lang in just 1hr. Alright, now for the long haul down to Singapore! Its gonna be a long night…

Last 2 days in Tioman

Day 5 0700hrs, join Terry and Anna at the ramp. We are going for short easy walk thru Berjaya to Paya, so says our friends… We didnt know how long a walk it was going to be… well, we are in for a surprise…

A very "feng shui" picture! Berjaya resorts.

Its only a short walk to the Berjaya resorts, the only difficulty being the 500m steep uphill walk.

The Berjaya resorts is about golf, beach, water sports… anything and everything that makes a great island resort experience is available here.

The more exquisite of Berjaya offerings, Shahzan Villas.

Check out this very feng shui picture! All 5 elements are here!

The whole property is very well situated in Tioman. Flats, hills, beaches, cliffs and a small waterfall, they have the opportunity to make the best use out of it. Using the natural slope and rocks, here on this hill is the very exquisite Shahzan villas. Access to the suites is by verticular, ..something like a cross between a cable car and a train. The blue thing on the right of this picture is the verticular…

Tat turtle santuary stone marker! So cute!

Anyway, being on the hill offers a spectacular view off the Tioman coastline. .. I imagine… cos I wish.. but I dun get to ride up and check it out for myself… wonder how much it cost for a weekend in a villa… hmm.. ?

Turtle recreation home.. but they are not home right now

A short walk thru the golf course brought us to the TAT turtle Sanctuary… I thot the stone marker is so old fashion and charming… cute!

And then the little hut.. was hoping to catch a turtle hanging out on a beach car .. but nobody is in at the moment.. turtles are not expected till Aug…

Paya resort chalets..

From this point, the walking becomes more challenging. We had to walk on the sandfly infested beach, cross a stream on a plank, trek uphill and downhill thru a dense forestation and rocks trail. This stretch is about 1hr of some difficulty.. quite tiring…

Our taxi back to Tekek

Then we emerge into daylight again, pass a little village, walk over 2 more bridges and viola, we are at Paya. We would never make it.. if not for our guides Terry and Ana… 🙂 ..

… but we are not in good shape to retrace our track back to Tekek… we opted for the easy way out.. we 2 only, Terry and Ana is gonna walk back and enjoy the games room at the Berjaya…

Paya village... not the resort

So we ordered the taxi and then they start fixing it to take us back… not a very comforting sight… life in Tioman… 🙂 The ride is 30rm per pax, and they did the trip for just 2 of us.. thats not bad. 

The idyllic Paya village.

BTW, Paya resort is pretty nice too. No golf, but lots of beach and watersports. .. and its next to the Paya village, a tiny little community but people seems to be nicer than those at Tekek… and no squeeching motorbikes and horns! Its much quieter and so much more relaxing around here.

Anyway, we had to wait… so I got us some T-shirt souveneirs, fried bananas aka “goreng pisang”, lemonade aka “limau ais”. Its a really pleasant little village.. nice…

Our ride back is only 15mins.. very fast and surprisingly not too wet. .. so we are back to our very warm boat.. 1300hrs.. time for afternoon siesta. .. zzz.. and we are too pooped for anything else… no partying tonight for sure.. 🙂

A good looking sail in the marina

Day 6, we are getting ready to leave this evening. I found that cooking underway is not so fun. Much better to be prepared ahead of time, if possible. Spent the morning preparing food that we be eating underway. Ginger fried rice is one of the best 1st sea meals.

A pretty tanbark sail raised in the marina, a sure invitation for pictures. They are going nowhere, just airing out the sails..

Thats Calliste at Tioman marina

Day 6 aft, spent 2hrs running around, looking for the harbour master, customs and immigrations. Pooped already! but at least thats done. Last minute shopping for dinner, next day lunch, eggs and more beer.

We are planning a late evening departure. If we leave 2300hrs, we should make it to Aur around 0800hrs next day at just 4.5kns. .. Okay, we overslept a little bit.. and we actually left 0015hrs… 🙂

Day 3 and 4 around Tekek, Tioman

Day 3 0900, opps the day kinda started late and its almost too warm to start walking… it took abit more energy to get us started on the walking thing, but I am glad we did go.

Flight into Tioman

We are walking North towards the marine park, checking out the villages along the way. We were walking along the airstrip when the Berjaya flight into Tioman was coming in. Got this pretty good picture of the plane.. and then my trusty Nikon L20 died… sigh… we’ll count on Dougs’ L21 from now.

Map of tioman

Newly constructed waterfront walkway.. a sign of the village getting more touristy. Modern homes were being constructed and lots of sewerage systems and piping were laying around… not so rustic anymore eh..

Lots of trees line the waterfront. We try to walk under shade where we can. .. So we got to the marine park and its free entry and free to swim. Life jacket and snorkels are for rent but hanging out with the fishes is free. Okay we are coming back tomoro with our own gear.

Gina preparing for party on Supercat

Back to Calliste for lunch and nap. Its too hot for anything else. Snooze up and be ready for the next party at Supercat.

Day 3 1900hrs, we are on board supercat and were introduced to the 14 very fun Filipino employees of Berjaya Resort. The party has began! Once again, Phil and Gina, spoiling us with great food, drinks and entertainment. This was a Filipino themed Easter Monday night. The Berjaya crew had to work on Sunday, so party had to be on Monday… but hey, this is island life! Anyday can be party day!

Dawn at the marine park..

We retire to Calliste at about midnight… the party is still on, the band is still singing and the girls are still dancing… but we were pooped!

Day 4 0720hrs, we are out and on our way to the Marine park. This time, Doug is going snorkeling and I will be snacking and lazing around. Its only a 2km walk, which should take only 24mins at normal walking pace.

Snorkel and fins on

We were there at 0800. Its dawn at the marine park, the sun is behind the mountains and its nice and cool. The fishes are just waking up to welcome us. We like it that we have the whole place to ourselves.

That strange big fish in the aquarium

I am not a water person… really.. I try not to get wet… 🙂 I am sure Doug will enjoy swimming in the aquarium… and I will enjoy watching the strange “big fish”.. 🙂

Crabbie

So while I was there… check out the other creatures around here. A good looking crab with pinches still intact.

Oyster wall art

A wall of oysters! Look at the purple lip. .. its only at the edges of the shell.

After 1hr of soaking, I got Doug out.. before he gets too pruny… and yes yes, I had a earful of whats going on down below.. 🙂

The day was still cool, so we walked over to Air Batang.. just over the hill from the Marine park. A short 10 min trail and viola, we’re there. A nice little resort and restaurant. Just looking around. A little more rustic than Tekek, a little more relaxed around here.

Sunsets are usually quite nice after warm days

1200hrs, we’re back on Calliste. Another flak out hot afternoon, save for some cooking for our small dinner party tonight.

17o0hrs, time for a little stroll around town. Visit captain Kirk and his table of beer downing friends. Ordered our booze. To be delivered on Thurs.. our last day in Tioman. ..

1900hrs, time for our private little dinner party on board Calliste. Our long time friends from Sebana, now here at Tioman. A simple Chinese home fare kinda meal. We have so much to catch up on. .. and so we yakyakyak.

<… continue… again later..>

6 solid days in Tioman

Day 1: Tying up to docks, asking around about moving into a better berth if possible, clearing in at the customs, immigrations and harbourmaster office. Getting a worthless dinner at one of the Chinese restaurants… There went a day.

Kayaking is fun amongst rocks!

Day 2 AM: Am determined to have a day of fun.. 1st thing this beautiful morning, we are going kayaking! .. and I am looking for clams … brought my tiny little plastic shovel, but alas no clams to be found on the 2 beaches north of the marina..

Sitting back, coasting along on a kayak

Oh well, just relax and enjoy the beatiful aquarium. .. I mean, sitting so low on the water that is so clear that the bottom can be seen, and the fishes that are just going about their business, this really feels like I am kayaking on a aquarium. I feel so connected to the sea and marine life. Of course, the next step is to join them with dive or snorkel gear… but count me out on that.. I really do prefer seeing from the top.

Lots of fishes in this aquarium

Kayaking around the pier at the marine park. Look at all these fishes. They just swim up to you.

Danger! Patch of sea urchins

And this black patch is ….. urchins! A whole colony of them. There are many patches around, so swimmers beware. I thought they must be worth a bunch… wonder why nobody harvest them..?

Urchins. Look at the dots!

I am surprised to see that they have iridescent white, blue and orange spots.. and they crawl! They clean (eat) the algae along the path, so you can even see their tracks.

Waters of Tioman

This is the water around Tetek. Its definately clean and clear. The bottom is whitish rock and sand, with good amount of daylight that penetrates the clear water, the result is a abstract beigey tint picture of the rocky bottom. There are 2 surfaces that are visual here, the water surface and the rocky bottom. I am fascinated by reflection and refraction effects of the water medium, which makes looking at the rocky bottom similar to looking thru a kelaidoscope.

Day 2 PM: Quite a number of Singapore Easter rally boats left… as usual. They are so predictable. This Good Friday – Easter rally kinda an yearly event that is organized by somebody at One15. Participants are always powerboats. They zoom over in like 10hrs on Friday, and then zoom back on Sunday.

Gathering of cruising boaters at Nona's

So anyway, they made it before us, so they took up all the places in the marina. Now that they are gone…. hee hee, we get to pick the spots. Its very tight manuvering in there, almost impossible to turn around without hitting somebody. Good old boy Doug did it and we got ourselves a berth..

We were then overcome by heat and fatique, simply collapsed into our warm bunks and snoozed. It was really terribly warm! We should have brought the aircon! We will! Next time!

Good thing it cools down quite abit as soon as the sun sets. Now we are ready for the partying! 1st stop, gathering at Nona’s. On the pontoon, there is just enuf space to set up a picnic table and bring your own stools. Finger food contribution welcomed, definately BYOB!

2nd party stop, the doctors’ birthday party on Eastwind II finger. It was late night pizzas, lots of cold beer and plenty of drinks. A real party!!! The doctor is in a most generous mood….

<… to be continued..>

Sailing to Tioman 2011

Its here, finally! A shake down testsail for Calliste and a dream vacation for Doug and me. This will be the 1st test of the new mast that was installed just last month… will it work? we hope so.

Sunrise off the East Coast of Singapore

Our intended departure was 21st Apr 2300hrs… yeah right! Why leave at almost midnight!? .. Dougs old sailors’ myth, its bad luck to leave port on Friday. .. so Thursday just before midnight it is, and thats stated on our port clearance.

Port side is where Yakuni is stowed.

Doug spent the whole week prepping for this trip, so that we could untie the lines and leave at the expected time… Yeah right! By the time we remove the aircon and some boxes of bulky not-gonna-use equipment, it was already 2300hrs and we were to exhausted to leave.

Stowing the un-named white Kayak on the starboard

Alright, so whats plan B? The weather is perfect for this trip on Fri and early part of Sat, but is expected to build and turn nasty on Sun. That means we leave Fri, or else we’ll have to wait till the system work itself out. … At least, on paper (port clearance), we left port on Thu… and you know what, its Good Friday! So its not going to be bad luck, I’m sure!… and I did manage to persuade Doug to go.. altho reluctly.. I was never a believer of that myth anyway.

Main sail and stay sail hoisted

0445hrs 22 Apr Good Friday, Calliste is underway, a short motoring to the Sisters Islands for Singapore immigration departure clearance…

0530hrs, nobody else is trying to get clearance at this .. er… ungodly hour… which is good for us, as we got immediate attention from them and the whole process was completed in 15mins.

Watch for bobbies and booby traps!

0600hrs, Calliste turn around the bottom corner of St Johns Island and bound beeline for Telok Rumunia, where we will have to navigate her carefully thru the North Rocks and then we can relax for the long straight northerly path to Tioman… altho we will still be on constant watch for fishing boats and traps.

Land HO! Tioman

1000hrs, past North Rocks in slack tide and very light wind. Ideal conditions for making around this treacherous stretch of rocks and reefs. As we expected, once we turn north, we went head on into the dominantly south flowing current, making only 4kns with engine running at 2400rpm. A very light NEasterly is filling in. .. Doug merrily raised full main and staysail, they went up alright! and gave us a precious 1/2 kn in our long crawl up to Tioman.

Opps, we are out of gas... luckily, we have a spare tank

1800hrs, we are offshore quite abit and dont see land no more… but from the GPS, we know that we are just passing Desaru on the Malaysian East Coast. Winds around here build in the afternoon and around this time it gets to be much more than we started. Double reefed main and staysail working very well in this condition and we would expect to leave them on thru the night, unless the wind falls off completely later.

Bread, bacon and tomato sandwich

0400hrs 23Apr, Land HO! Its still dark, but I can make out the tall hilly island. 0700hrs, approaching the marina, decided to have breakfast and washup before going in. .. opps, we are out of gas… but we have a spare.

Tiller dance by Doug

0830hrs, entering the marina. Tiller underfoot, Doug doing the tiller dance.

The marina is full! Lots of big power boaters from Singapore! Drats! They made it before us. Sure, they must have used zillion gallons of fuel to get there this fast! Ok, so we will stay at the incoming berth for the day and move to the inner berths when they leave the next day.

Calliste at the "incoming" berth.

Cruising tip: I dun like to cook within 24hrs after leaving port. This is the time that I need to acclimatise myself to the new environment and plus, we can get take out food and keep them edible for a day rather easily. Our 1st seaward meal was paper wrapped fried carrot cake for breakfast and the 2nd was paper wrapped fried kway teow. Paper wrapping is much better for keeping the original flavor of the food without adding the plastic taste to it. The thin PP sheet that line the paper keeps the oil in and is in itself tasteless, unlike the styrofoam which have a strong plastic taste. These foods were purchased on the evening of our intended departure, from Seah Im street hawker that is about 15mins walk from our berth. For this type of cooked food, I dont refrigerate them if I expect to eat them within 12hrs. It will be alright to just keep them cool, and reheat before eating. 

For meals between 12hrs to 24hrs, I like it prepared on the day of departure, while still in port. Usually, I cook a pot of rice, allow to cool and then put into tupperware and refrigerate. Tupperwares allow neat stacking and is the best way to use the very small refrigeration space in our little Engel.  Hard boiled eggs are very good “tide me overs”, we always cook 1/2 dozen and refrigerate. Also high on my list, pickled veggies, canned olives and tuna. Anything that doesnt need cooking and will add good flavor to my rice is good to have on board.

Bread, Spam and tomatoes makes a great sandwich that is easy to prepare. Hot choc, tea and coffee are must haves rations. Biscuits, chips and nuts for snacks… We find ourselves, that we really do eat quite well while sailing… that comes only with good provisioning and pre trip food prep makes life easy for the 1st 24hrs out there.

<… trip blog to be continued>